Belize: Paddling in a Giant Bathtub
I generally try to avoid countries in which the US Dollar is a widely accepted form of currency, as well as those with 4 daily non-stop flights to Texas. Nevertheless, I headed down to Belize with Kristin for a weeklong vacation, hoping to find more local adventures than yokels with dentures.
Our journey began in Dangriga. Though its population of 9,000 makes it the largest town in southern Belize, Frommers correctly observed that "there are no good beaches" and "the town can feel stifling hot and desolate on most days". Dirt roads and collapsed buildings outnumbered the few tourists passing through.
We met Captain Buck as he stumbled out of the Riverside Cafe. He quickly ushered us and another couple into his old, run-down skiff, stashing our bags next to a large supply of raw meat. We pushed off as he grabbed a wooden bench from the dock: this was to become our seat for the 9 mile ride out to the island of Tobacco Caye.
Most guidebooks advise travelers to make this crossing in the morning, as afternoons can be gusty. So naturally we planned a 5:30pm departure, and soon found our little vessel slammed around by white-capped swells on an open sea. Our bench toppled over within minutes, and we scrambled to hang on before the next massive drop. Another passenger confided that Buck had been enjoying a few beers before our departure. Kristin, a maritime SAR expert, awarded Buck points for attacking the waves at a 45-degree angle, while I suggested that we should have traded the raw meat for a few life jackets back at the dock.
In any event, Tobacco Caye proved to be an excellent backpackers' hideaway, with perhaps 50 rooms and as many hammocks scattered around the tiny island. Simple lodging and food, but very relaxing. The cabanas on the water at Paradise Lodge are among the nicest on the island.
We later hopped on a larger boat and spent the next few days kayaking at Glover's Reef, a remote atoll with hundreds of patch reefs in a tranquil lagoon. It's basically a giant outdoor bathtub, though apparently soap and rubber duckies are discouraged. You can watch stingrays swimming gracefully beneath your kayak, and it's easy to disembark near a shallow patch reef for snorkeling among the colorful little fishies.
As you might expect when 30 miles offshore on a sandbar, you don't have to worry about hordes of tourists. However, sleeping at the reef is not cheap. If you can handle an organized group camping trip with lots of Americans and coconut squirrels, one relatively affordable option is the 3-day Glovers Getaway on Southwest Caye. Otherwise, try the more expensive cabanas at Isla Marisol (also on Southwest Caye), or for longer stays, the bunks at the research station on Middle Caye.
Our journey began in Dangriga. Though its population of 9,000 makes it the largest town in southern Belize, Frommers correctly observed that "there are no good beaches" and "the town can feel stifling hot and desolate on most days". Dirt roads and collapsed buildings outnumbered the few tourists passing through.We met Captain Buck as he stumbled out of the Riverside Cafe. He quickly ushered us and another couple into his old, run-down skiff, stashing our bags next to a large supply of raw meat. We pushed off as he grabbed a wooden bench from the dock: this was to become our seat for the 9 mile ride out to the island of Tobacco Caye.
Most guidebooks advise travelers to make this crossing in the morning, as afternoons can be gusty. So naturally we planned a 5:30pm departure, and soon found our little vessel slammed around by white-capped swells on an open sea. Our bench toppled over within minutes, and we scrambled to hang on before the next massive drop. Another passenger confided that Buck had been enjoying a few beers before our departure. Kristin, a maritime SAR expert, awarded Buck points for attacking the waves at a 45-degree angle, while I suggested that we should have traded the raw meat for a few life jackets back at the dock.
In any event, Tobacco Caye proved to be an excellent backpackers' hideaway, with perhaps 50 rooms and as many hammocks scattered around the tiny island. Simple lodging and food, but very relaxing. The cabanas on the water at Paradise Lodge are among the nicest on the island.We later hopped on a larger boat and spent the next few days kayaking at Glover's Reef, a remote atoll with hundreds of patch reefs in a tranquil lagoon. It's basically a giant outdoor bathtub, though apparently soap and rubber duckies are discouraged. You can watch stingrays swimming gracefully beneath your kayak, and it's easy to disembark near a shallow patch reef for snorkeling among the colorful little fishies.As you might expect when 30 miles offshore on a sandbar, you don't have to worry about hordes of tourists. However, sleeping at the reef is not cheap. If you can handle an organized group camping trip with lots of Americans and coconut squirrels, one relatively affordable option is the 3-day Glovers Getaway on Southwest Caye. Otherwise, try the more expensive cabanas at Isla Marisol (also on Southwest Caye), or for longer stays, the bunks at the research station on Middle Caye.