
There are
many beautiful places to hike in the world, and many famous trails. But Peru's classic
Inca Trail is arguably the world's most famous hike involving llamas: quite the claim to fame.
Yes, it's full of tourists. You must travel with a guide, cook, and porters, having applied for a permit far in advance. You can purchase Gatorade and beer along the way. The meals provided by many groups are impressive: our group feasted on three-course hot lunches each day. This is nothing like traditional backpacking.

Despite these caveats, hiking the Inca Trail is a fabulous experience. The high alpine scenery, tropical rainforest, and ancient ruins are captivating. Early on the final morning, we explored the ruins of WiƱay Huayna alone in silence, apart from the sounds of the jungle and the Urubamba river far below. Then, entering the Lost City through the Sun Gate (Intipunku), we watched the rays of sun strike the city below, a fitting end to our journey.

The enormous crowds at
Machu Picchu can feel overwhelming after a few days on the trail. The best time to explore is late in the day, before sunset, when the tour buses and day trippers will have already departed. In the morning, head straight for Waynu Picchu, the loaf-shaped mountain in all of the postcards. Only a certain number of visitors are permitted to ascend each day, and the trail is crowded and steep, but the views and exposure are tremendous: we descended an ancient stairway made of stone logs jutting out from a high wall, suspended in mid-air. Definitely a no-fall zone.
Cusco, at an elevation of 3,300 meters, is the traditional acclimatization spot for tourists; high-end hotels will pump extra oxygen into your room for a fee. Contrary to expectations, it's actually significantly higher than Machu Pichu (2,400m). The city itself is relatively approachable and fun to explore on foot; ruins in the surrounding area, including those at Pisac and Sacsayhuaman, are worth a visit too.
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